Just north of central Melbourne, Carlton is one of the city’s most erudite quartieri (neighbourhood), a charming enclave of Victorian terraces, espresso-guzzling professors and independent theatres showcasing fresh, local work.

Start in the Carlton Gardens, eyeing up the World Heritage-listed Exhibition Building and perhaps exploring Melbourne's backstory at the neighbouring Melbourne Museum. A block further west is Drummond Street, lined with gracious, exorbitantly priced 19th-century abodes.

Running parallel to the west is Melbourne's historic Little Italy, Lygon Street. The best block lies between Grattan and Elgin Streets, home topasticceria (pastry shop-cafe) Brunetti, art-house Cinema Nova, as well as cafe-bar-providore King and Godfree and its panoramic rooftop eatery-bar Johnny’s Green Room. A few steps away lies artisan gelateria Pidapipó and award-winning bookstore Readings.