Ester
Creative wood-fired fare (l,d; $$$)
Ester is a pro with fire, its wood-fired oven pumping out of dishes as comforting as they are inventive. The charred potato bread with kefir cream, trout roe and dashi jelly is non-negotiable, not to mention the perfect prologue to options like claypot cauliflower with garlic butter and sage, cult-status blood sausage sanga, and wood-fired quince with vanilla and sour Montenegro.
Sunday’s set-menu roast ($120) elevates the time-honoured tradition, while Ester’s booze list fizzes and pops with some of the most exciting minimal-interventionist wines found in Sydney. Book ahead.
46-52 Meagher St, Chippendale
Opening hours: Tue-Fri 6pm-late, Sat from noon, Sun noon-3.30pm
Transport: Train to Central
ester-restaurant.com.au