Most famous of Istria’s hilltop towns is Motovun, an ancient stone settlement perched on a conical hill 20km inland from the peninsula’s west coast.

It was a predominantly Italian-speaking town until the aftermath of World War II, when its inhabitants were pressured to emigrate. Artists subsequently moved into the empty properties, creating a town of ateliers and craft shops which soon became a regular fixture on tourist itineraries.

It is in any case a delightful town in which to stroll, with a perfectly preserved Renaissance town square, and a walkable circle of battlements offering expansive views.

Truffles & wine

The town lies at the centre of Istria’s truffle-hunting region, and dishes seasoned with the smelly fungoid delicacy are available in all the local restaurants. Some of Istria’s best malvazija wine (a medium-dry white) comes from the surrounding fields.

Motovun Film Festival