Thirteen kilometres north of Narva is the beachside settlement of Narva-Jõesuu, a 4km-long line of holiday homes and concrete hotels sheltered by pines.

One of the most glamorous watering holes in the Baltic during its pre-World War I heyday, Narva-Jõesuu now has the half-abandoned air of so many post-Soviet resorts. A central spa park, complete with swan-patrolled lake and bandstand, serves as a reminder of past glories, as does the neighbouring Kursaal public hall, where the cream of St Petersburg high society would congregate for concerts and balls. Once-opulent villas with carved timber porches line the streets, many of them in dilapidated condition.

The sandy beach is as good as they come, however, and Narva-Jõesuu is a peaceful, more restful alternative to Narva.

Practical Info

Narva-Jõesuu is easily reached from central Narva on municipal bus #31 from outside the post office on Puškini (every 20–30min).