Grožnjan
Hilltop beauty
When it comes to the historic towns of inland Istria, Grožnjan is one of the most rewarding, a warren of stone houses set on a green hill with fantastic views of the surrounding valleys. Rather like nearby Motovun, Grožnjan was a thriving market centre with a predominantly Italian-speaking population until World War II, after which most Italian families left and the town became a semi-inhabited museum relic, frozen in time.
The town was slowly re-populated by artists and musicians from all over the former Yugoslavia, earning a reputation as a cultural centre which it still retains. Lining its crooked, rough-paved alleyways are shops selling ceramics, souvenir handicrafts and (occasionally) real art.
Young musicians from all over Europe stay in the town in summer; a season of live jazz and classical performances runs from late June until early September. Another reason to visit is provided by the bric-à-brac market, which takes place outside the town gate every Thursday from Easter until the end of summer.
Grožnjan is accessible via a minor road that winds its way uphill from the main Buzet-Novigrad road.