Kaerjaan, Tallinn
Modern Estonian cuisine (b,l,d; €€€)
A deft mixture of design details - minimalist furnishings overlooked by archaic folk symbols on the ceiling - are enough to tell you that this is a traditional Estonian restaurant with a contemporary twist.
Local standards like pork chops and freshwater fish are served up with imaginative garnishes, while oriental-style stir-fries and fish burgers provide a creative global context.
It’s a bit flash, and you pay a bit extra for the main-square location, but then the food is above average and the setting is pretty magnificent.