Hong Kong Island’s northern districts of Central, Sheung Wan, Wan Chai, Causeway Bay and other areas have changed beyond recognition the past 100 years (and even in the 30-some years I’ve been coming here), but one thing remains constant: Hong Kong’s trams. In fact, Hong Kong has the largest fleet of double-decker tramcars in the world.

These endearing reminders of the past have been clanking their way through Central and beyond since 1904, on tracks that were once along the waterfront but are now blocks inland because of land reclamation. Traveling 18 miles/30 km from Kennedy Town in the west to Shau Kei Wan in the east (with one branch detouring to Happy Valley), the trams can’t be beat for atmosphere and offer unique views of Hong Kong’s street life (try to snag a seat upstairs in the front row).