It’s not worth trekking up to Fanling in the The New Territories just for this restaurant, but if you’re walking the nearby [Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail], Fug Ying Seen Koon is my number one pick for a place to refuel.

It’s located in Hong Kong’s largest Taoist temple, founded in 1929 by Cantonese refugees. Brightly decorated and occupying a hill just above Fanling Station, the temple is named after two make-believe islands that serve as resting places for immortals. This temple is therefore popular not only among Taoist worshippers but also for ancestral worship. In addition to its main altar, it’s home also to ancestral halls, where ashes of loved ones are kept; this is cheaper than traditional circular Chinese graves (but lucrative for the temple nevertheless), which you’ll also find in abundance on the hillside behind the temple.