Dar Essalam is a palatial restaurant where you can dine amidst sumptuous surroundings, with a floorshow. It's a lovely place, but it's strictly for tourists.

You can order your meal à la carte, but most people go for the set menus (275h for three courses, 350dh for four courses, wine not included). You start with salad, soup or briouates (filo pastry triangles stuffed with delicacies). Main course options include a selection of tajines, or roast lamb, or veg pastilla (chicken or pigeon pastilla cost extra). Desserts include rice pudding with cinnamon, or a sweet pastilla with almonds and custard.

But although the food is decent enough, it's the ambience you really come for. It's housed in a seventeenth-century mansion with four salons. The K'dim Room is the oldest, with beautiful stucco work. The Royal Salon is a lounge with a fountain in the middle. The Marjane Lounge is all dominated by zellij tilework. The eighteenth-century Bahja Salon is a bit more restrained, but also has fine zellij and carved cedar.