Nong Khai
Gateway to Laos
Sprawled along the south bank of the Mekong River, Nong Khai has more character than any of Isaan’s other big towns and somehow keeps a village feel, especially along the riverside, where the Tha Sadet Market is worth exploring. This is the end of the northeastern rail line from Bangkok, and many travellers cross the river here to Vientiane, the capital of Laos.
There’s not much to see in town, but just 5km to the east is the Sala Kaeo Kou (aka Wat Khaek), a bizarre sculpture garden with eye-popping sights such as a 25-metre tall, 7-headed naga protecting a tiny Buddha. Lovers of geological oddities might like to make the 60km trip southeast of town to Phu Phra Bat Historical Park, where weird rock formations are tied up with Buddhist legends.