Tucked away down a quite cobbled alleyway to the river near Museum Gardens and through an archway, this riverside upmarket addition to the York restaurant scene.

Already known to food lovers from its original home at the 14th century Star Inn in the North Yorkshire village of Harome, it offers a contemporary take on Yorkshire food. While it claims to provide "simple Yorkshire cooking", that is somewhat ingenuous and can easily give the wrong impression: This is quality food.

Open for breakfast from 9 am (9.30 in winter), outside mealtimes the daytime restaurant provides an informal and welcoming place for reading a newspaper or surfing the web. Choose from coffee, lunch or afternoon tea.

Sit in the former pump room of York waterworks, in the light modern new building, or in summer on the outside terrace overlooking the river and opposite the rowing club.

Cooking is of a high standard and varied, using thoughtfully and freshly prepared (often local) ingredients with special seasonal dishes.