Split is a stroller’s delight, an endless parade of ancient remains, fine architecture and unexpected piazzas.

Morning: Palace & Peristyle

The former palace complex is at the centre of the modern town, set back from a seafront Riva shaded by palms and cafe awnings that serves as the city’s year-round social focus.

Best place to start exploring the palace is the Peristyle, once the courtyard leading to Diocletian’s private quarters and nowadays a piazza squeezed by a popular cafe on one side and Split Cathedral on the other.

On the opposite side of the Peristyle a narrow alley leads to the former Temple of Jupiter, now the cathedral’s baptistry.

Steps on the southern side of the Peristyle lead up to the Vestibule, a circular space where those summoned to an audience with the Emperor would wait their turn. Beyond, Diocletian’s private quarters have been overlaid by a jumble of (nevertheless rather fine) medieval houses. One of these is occupied by Split Ethnographic Museum, a treasure-house of folklore which is well worth a look.