Today relatively few locals live in Edinburgh's Old Town, the maze of steep cobbled streets and hidden alleys that lie draped over a volcanic ridge at the centre of their city. Yet its urban density suggests this was not always so.

Indeed, for most of Edinburgh's history – in the days when it was fortified and little building took place beyond its city walls – this is where almost everyone lived.

A medieval Manhattan

The result of so many trying to squeeze into a relatively compact space is that the houses grew upwards producing a medieval "Manhattan", whose skyscrapers must have been every bit as impressive in their day.... Though maybe not quite as impressive as the smells of the era, since it was these that gave the city its nickname Auld Reekie (Old Smelly).

The Old Town today

Today’s Old Town atmosphere is mostly provided by the many wandering visitors and tartan-flavoured souvenir shops, but it’s still a key place to get a feel for the Gothic city and see key sites.