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Wick

Where once the herring boomed

Wick, Caithness, Scotland.

Once the busiest herring port in Europe, Wick started to prosper in the wake of the Highland Clearances, when it was successfully enlarged by displaced crofters who took up fishing. Trade links bound Wick to Scandinavia, Russia and even the West Indies, but the eventual demise of this industry has left a slightly despairing and unkempt place in its wake.

Nevertheless, it’s fun to wander around the tight rows of fishermen’s cottages and around the large harbour, imagining the scenes a century ago. The city’s local history museum, The Wick Society (Bank Row, Pultneytown; Apr–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–3.45pm; £4) helps with this, thanks to a huge number of interesting artefacts from the heydays: model boats, reconstructed period rooms, and scores of impressive photos from an incredible 70,000-strong archive.

Whisky fans might also want to look in at the Old Pulteney Distillery for public tours and tastings.

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The East Coast

Day 6: Tongue–Wick

83 miles/2hrs

Day 7: Wick–Inverness

107 miles on fast coastal roads

Text © Christian Williams

Image by Michael Livsey