The covered Mellah market has been attractively refurbished, and specializes in spices and traditional cosmetics.

The spices are piled high in tall conical pyramids, and in case you're wondering, they don't stand like that on their own, but have metal cones inside to hold them up.

Moroccan cooking uses a variety of spices, many of them imported. A particularly typical combination is ras el-hanout. Its composition varies from shop to shop, but will usually include white pepper, dried ginger, turmeric, cumin and coriander (cilantro) seeds. It's a good idea to get a recommendation from a local cook or housewife on where to buy a good version of the mix.

The spice grown in the region around Marrakesh is cumin (kamoun). It's a good buy and the best seeds are nice and plump. Most places in the Mellah market will have two or three grades of it.